by Robert Marcos, photojournalist
California got its name from a popular Spanish romance novel that was published in 1510. The book, “Las Sergas de Esplandián” described California as a mythical island that was inhabited by Amazons and was filled with gold and pearls. So when Hernán Cortés arrived at the southern end of the Baja peninsula in 1535, its elongated appearance led him to believe they had found the legendary island. This misconception became so deeply embedded that European cartographers continued to publish maps that showed California as an island well into the 18th century.
Five years after Cortez’s expedition the Portuguese navigator Hernando de Alarcón set sail from Acapulco with two Spanish caravels, a tender, and 45 crewmen and headed back to the Sea of Cortez. Alarcón’s mission was to transport supplies to the 2,000 man Coronado Expedition that had left from the State of Nayarit, in Mexico, three months earlier. Alarcon and his men were ordered to rendezvous with a detachment from the Coronado Expedition at the confluence of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, just north of present-day Yuma.
Alarcón and his vessels enjoyed favorable winds and arrived at the northern edge of the Sea of Cortez in early August. Alarcón quickly determined that California was in fact not an island because there was no open-water passage that led back to the Pacific Ocean. The men made their way up through the Colorado river delta and by doing so made history by becoming the first Europeans to explore the lower Colorado River. But before long the conditions became perilous, as the ships encountered a terrifying natural phenomenon known as a tidal bore. The massive wall of water that was caused by incoming ocean tides colliding with the river’s outward current, nearly destroyed the fleet. The raging waters ran the caravels aground, tilting them dangerously and threatening to smash the hulls. But through strict discipline and skilled seamanship the crew somehow managed to stabilize the vessels and survive the furious tides.
When the river finally became too shallow to continue Alarcon ordered for the larger ships to be anchored, then he launched “tenders” (called Bergantinas). Historic illustrations show these small ships as having a single “lateen” sail and oar placements for rowing. Alarcon and a contingent of sailors then began the exhausting effort of rowing northward, against the river’s powerful current. Alarcon stopped at native villages along the way to converse with Indigenous groups and gather intelligence. Again – his primary objective was to rendezvous with a detachment of soldiers from the Coronado Expedition at the confluence of the Colorado and Gila Rivers. The soldiers would then use horses and wagons to transport the much-needed cargo back to the main column of Coronado’s expedition, which had continued to push northward to explore what is now the United States.
Weeks later Alarcón and his men finally reached the Gila River, near modern-day Yuma. But vastness of the terrain and the lack of communication tools prevented the two forces from meeting. When Alarcón finally because tired of waiting he buried a hoard of supplies and letters, at the base of a marked tree, then sailed back to his ships that were anchored in the delta. Several weeks later Captain Melchior Diaz found Alarcon’s letters and the supplies, and would’ve carried out his mission had he not been killed in an accident two days later. But that’s a story for another time…
